Plantain gnocchi turn familiar Caribbean flavors into something new

Miami isn’t Jamaica, of course. But enclaves of that city are home to groups of people with ties to the greater Caribbean, and those communities lean hard into their traditional food and culture. The vibrant colors and bold design of the book reminded me of those neighborhoods and the flavors I associated with them. South Florida was where I lived when I graduated from subsisting on a steady diet of fast food and casual chains to seeking out the flavors that make a place unique. Black beans and rice, yuca, mofongo, empanadas and Jamaican patties were the dishes that initially tore my attention away from the burgers, takeout pizza and late-night diner food that were my default up to that point.

Moore is a London-based musician who grew up in Jamaica. Her interest in food grew when she was on tour, and that inspired her to create dishes to match the memories she craved. She started hosting supper clubs and pop-up restaurants featuring her vegan takes on those tastes of Jamaica, and when the pandemic hit, she began compiling recipes for what would become “Plentiful.” Is it weird that Moore’s memories of her history viscerally took me back to a different place?

Admittedly, another part of what I loved about that food back then was the roasted pork and grilled chicken and oxtails, too. So I was curious to see which of Moore’s dishes would look familiar to me. Many employ mushrooms, tofu and even hearts of palm to fill roles traditionally filled by an animal protein. I was immediately interested in her take on chicken and beef patties, which use vegan meat alternatives inside the classic turmeric-tinted dough. They looked just like the ones that one of my former colleagues used to bring to the office to share, and I was sure I would make those soon.

But then I turned the page and saw a dish unlike anything I ever encountered in South Florida.

One of the dishes that she created for the pop-ups was something she originally called “Rasta Pasta.” It was gnocchi, based not with the traditional potato like the Italian prototype, but plantain. Plantains were often the basis of my favorite side dishes when I lived in South Florida, but when I saw the recipe in the book, it took me a minute; the idea of plantains as gnocchi initially stunned me, but then it made total sense. Like potatoes, plantains are a starch. Why wouldn’t it work?

A guide to buying, cooking and enjoying plantains

It came together so fast and simmers briefly in a sauce that is little more than a can of coconut milk and an entire head of soft roasted garlic. It’s a handful of familiar elements that together taste like nothing you’ve ever had before.

And just like that, I have an entirely new flavor combination that I’ll never forget.

Plantain Gnocchi in Coconut-Garlic Sauce

Serve with a green salad.

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• 2 ripe plantains (yellow with a lot of black spots)
• 1 head garlic, halved through the equator
• 2 tablespoons plus 1 teaspoon olive oil, divided
• 1/2 teaspoon fine salt, plus more as needed
• 3 tablespoons water
• 3/4 cup all-purpose flour, plus more for dusting
• One (13-ounce) can full-fat coconut milk
• 1 tablespoon nutritional yeast
• 1 tablespoon shiro miso (white miso)
• 1 tablespoon coconut vinegar or fresh lemon juice
• 1 teaspoon ground allspice
• Freshly ground black pepper
• Grated vegan parmesan cheese, for serving

Position a rack in the middle of the oven and preheat to 400 degrees.

Pierce the plantains several times with the tip of a sharp knife and place on a large, rimmed baking sheet. Rub the cut sides of the garlic halves with 1 teaspoon of the oil and a sprinkle of salt, then place the cut sides back together and set the bulb on the same baking sheet. Roast the plantains and garlic together for 30 minutes, or until the plantains are blackened and the garlic is soft.

Let the plantains cool about 5 minutes, then carefully trim the ends, make a shallow cut down the length of each plantain, just through the peel, and remove the peel (the peel may split during roasting, in which case, start peeling from there). Transfer the flesh to the food processor. Add the water and 1/2 teaspoon of the salt and pulse to form a smooth mixture. Add the flour and process to form a dough, about 1 minute.

Lightly flour your work surface and turn the dough out onto it. Using your hands, bring the dough together to form a ball, then cut it in half. Roll each piece into a log about 3/4-inch thick, then cut across to make 3/4-inch-long gnocchi. If you like, roll each piece along the back of a fork to get the classic ridged shape.

Squeeze the roasted garlic into the food processor (no need to wash after processing the plantains), then add the coconut milk, nutritional yeast, miso, vinegar and allspice and blend until smooth.

In a large skillet over medium-high heat, heat the remaining 2 tablespoons of the oil until it begins to shimmer. Add the gnocchi and fry without moving them, until well browned, about 4 minutes. (The gnocchi will begin to brown almost immediately; let them develop some color.) Flip the gnocchi and cook until well browned on the other side, another 4 minutes.

Pour the coconut-garlic sauce into the pan and increase the heat to high. Cook until the gnocchi are well coated in the reduced, thickened sauce, about 5 minutes.

Remove from the heat and serve, with a grating of black pepper and sprinkle of vegan parmesan.

Per serving (about 1 1/2 cups)

Calories: 623; Total Fat: 37 g; Saturated Fat: 23 g; Cholesterol: 0 mg; Sodium: 667 mg; Carbohydrates: 72 g; Dietary Fiber: 5 g; Sugar: 21 g; Protein: 10 g

This analysis is an estimate based on available ingredients and this preparation. It should not substitute for a dietitian’s or nutritionist’s advice.

Adapted from “Plentiful” by Denai Moore (Hardie Grant, 2023).

Tested by Jim Webster; email questions to voraciously@washpost.com.

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