Leftover cabbage? Smother it in tomato gravy and pile it on grits.

The email didn’t take issue with the recipe itself, but the writer said that they’d never make the salad because of something that they see in a lot of recipes. It called for a portion of a head of green cabbage and a portion of a head of red cabbage.

The point was succinct: What am I supposed to do with the rest of this cabbage?

Food waste is an issue that’s always at the front of my mind. I’ve written a lot about farmers, and I consider it a moral failing when I have to toss something that went bad on my watch. And food insecurity is a parallel issue that means a lot to me. So the email resonated.

But, honestly, that’s one of the reasons I like to always have some cabbage in my crisper. I’ve found that it has a pretty forgiving margin for error as far as its life span.

Before I get too deep into my personal practices, I poked around to look for an official guideline on how long cut vegetables are expected to last in the refrigerator. I didn’t really find one.

The FDA has a general rule that says leftovers can be safely kept for four days. When it gets into specifics, it doesn’t address fresh produce, but mostly meat, dairy and processed foods. Various sites I found suggested that cut cabbage can be stored anywhere from two days to several weeks. Which didn’t feel like an answer, either.

Whole cabbage is a cold storage crop, meaning that any head you buy at the grocery store was probably harvested weeks, if not months, earlier. How fast is it likely to deteriorate once it gets cut?

I talked to Rachael Jackson, founder of EatOrToss.com and a Washington Post contributor on food safety issues, who said she was unaware of any official guidelines. She said that once you cut into any vegetable, it becomes more susceptible to spoilage, and that any number of variables (moisture levels, temperature, how it was cut) can influence the speed at which that happens.

So where does that leave us?

Here’s my strategy: When you bring home a fresh cabbage, use it for any raw preparations first. Wrap it and keep it in the fridge, and if you want to use it raw again, do it within the next few days. After that, use it only in cooked applications to kill anything problematic that might have grown in the interim. (Experts say leftovers should reach a temperature of 165 degrees or come to a rolling boil.) If you find that it is slimy, smelly or soggy — in other words, in any way unappetizing — pitch it (or, ideally, compost it).

When I got that reader email, I had already been thinking of a dish of tomato gravy over grits, and was contemplating ways to make it more substantial without the bacon fat that would traditionally be the base. That’s when I saw the leftover cabbage in my crisper and realized I could solve two problems at once by smothering the cabbage in a tomato gravy flavored with a tablespoon of smoked paprika.

Then I added cabbage to my shopping list, because I was out.

Charred Cabbage Smothered in Tomato Gravy Over Grits

Feel free to add more cabbage to smother in the gravy; the recipe will accommodate as much as double without increasing the amount of tomato. It’s a great way to use up extra cabbage and extend the dish to more servings.

Storage: Refrigerate the cabbage for up to four days. The grits are best the day they’re made but can be refrigerated for up to four days. If they’re too stiff when reheated, add a splash or water or broth.

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• 4 cups water
• 1 cup grits (not quick-cooking or instant)
• 1 teaspoon fine salt, divided
• 1 tablespoon olive oil
• 1 pound green cabbage (½ medium head), thinly sliced
• 2 tablespoons apple cider vinegar
• 1 small red or yellow onion (4 ounces), thinly sliced
• 3 cloves garlic, minced or finely grated
• One (28-ounce) can crushed tomatoes
• 2 tablespoons tomato paste
• 1 tablespoon smoked paprika
• 1 cup no-salt-added vegetable broth, store-bought or homemade
• 2 tablespoons unsalted butter, dairy or vegan
• Freshly ground black pepper

In a medium pot over high heat, bring the water to a boil. Slowly add the grits, then ½ teaspoon of the salt, and stir. Let the water return to a boil, then reduce the heat to medium-low. Partially cover and cook, stirring frequently and scraping the bottom of the pot to prevent sticking, until thick and tender, 25 to 30 minutes.

Meanwhile, in a large skillet over medium-high heat, heat the oil until it shimmers and just starts to smoke. Add the cabbage, arrange it in an even layer and cook without moving it until it begins to char, 2 to 3 minutes. Stir and let more of the cabbage char, another 2 to 3 minutes. There should be blackened spots. Add the vinegar and toss to coat. Transfer about 1 cup of the cabbage to a plate and reserve. Push the rest of the cabbage to one side of the pan.

Add the onion and cook, stirring, until softened, about 3 minutes. Stir in the garlic, and cook until aromatic, about 1 minute. Add the crushed tomatoes, tomato paste, paprika, broth and the remaining ½ teaspoon salt, and stir to combine. Bring to a boil, then reduce the heat so the mixture is at a simmer and cook until chunky and soupy, 15 to 20 minutes.

Stir in the butter to incorporate.

Divide the grits among wide, shallow bowls, forming a well in the middle. Fill each well with the tomato gravy, then top each portion with some of the reserved cabbage. Season with pepper and serve hot.

Per serving (¾ cup grits, a scant 1 cup tomato gravy), based on 6

Calories: 230; Total Fat: 7 g; Saturated Fat: 3 g; Cholesterol: 10 mg; Sodium: 617 mg; Carbohydrates: 39 g; Dietary Fiber: 6 g; Sugar: 10 g; Protein: 6 g

This analysis is an estimate based on available ingredients and this preparation. It should not substitute for a dietitian’s or nutritionist’s advice.

From staff writer Jim Webster.

Tested by Jim Webster; email questions to voraciously@washpost.com.

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