I love a good egg roll. This bowl turns those flavors into dinner.

But at some point, something changed. It wasn’t my love of the food, and it wasn’t a matter of newfound restraint. It was my appetite. Even if I want to eat that much food, it’s not as easy as it used to be. The egg roll and soup went from being my takeout appetizers to my entire takeout experience.

That’s not a complaint. I kind of miss the days when I could easily devour a container of sweet-and-sour this or kung pao that. (Maybe there would be leftovers for tomorrow’s lunch, maybe there wouldn’t.) But I really like egg rolls and these days, I’m completely comfortable making them the star of a meal.

So imagine the gymnastics my eyebrows performed when I was flipping through “Mostly Veggies,” a new cookbook from blogger and holistic nutritionist Brittany Mullins, and I came across this recipe for Tofu Egg Roll in a Bowl. It has a lot of my favorite things. A colorful stir-fry. The bright bite of ginger. A light sauce built on umami (tamari or soy) and spice (sambal oelek). All on top of a bowl of rice. That’s the biggest deviation from a traditional egg roll, of course, but the truth is anything can become one of my favorite things when piled on a bowl of rice.

And since it isn’t fried and relies on some pre-prepped veggies, the mess it takes to make it would be minimal.

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But I’m an editor, and the hardest part of editing is noticing what isn’t there. I immediately sensed something was missing: the crunch. I’m also a chronic tinkerer, and immediately knew that I had the answer to that problem in my pantry: wonton chips. I keep them around to toss on top of salads, and they’re a reasonable analogue to the fried noodles that come with takeout to garnish soup. Sprinkled on top of the bowl, the egg roll experience felt satisfying.

Next time, maybe I’ll make a batch of hot-and-sour soup and complete the evolution of the memory.

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• 2 tablespoons toasted sesame oil
• 1 medium yellow onion (8 ounces), chopped
• 2 cloves garlic, minced or finely grated
• 2 teaspoons minced or grated fresh ginger
• One (14- to 16-ounce) package extra-firm tofu, drained and crumbled into bite-size pieces
• 3 1/2 ounces fresh shiitake mushrooms, stemmed and chopped
• 1/2 teaspoon fine salt
• 1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
• 1/4 cup reduced-sodium tamari, soy sauce or coconut aminos, or more to taste
• 1 tablespoon chili-garlic sauce, or a chili paste such as sambal oelek, or more as needed
• 1 tablespoon rice vinegar, or more as needed
• One (12-ounce) package coleslaw mix (may substitute 5 cups of a mix of shredded green and red cabbage)
• 1 cup (4 ounces) matchstick or shredded carrots (2 medium)
• 3 cups cooked white or brown rice, for serving (from 1 cup uncooked)
• 2 scallions, thinly sliced, for garnish (optional)
• Chopped fresh cilantro, for garnish (optional)
• Crispy wonton chips or fried Chinese noodles, for serving (optional)
• Sriracha, for serving

In a large skillet over medium-high heat, heat the sesame oil until it shimmers. Add the onion and cook, stirring occasionally, until it begins to soften, about 6 minutes. Add the garlic and ginger and cook until fragrant, about 1 minute.

Add the tofu, mushrooms, salt and pepper. Cook, stirring frequently, until the mushrooms begin to soften, about 3 minutes, then add the tamari, chili-garlic sauce and rice vinegar. Cook, stirring, until the mushrooms have softened and the tofu begins browning in spots, about 4 minutes. Add the coleslaw mix and carrots and cook, stirring frequently, until the cabbage begins to wilt, about 4 minutes. Taste, and season with more tamari, chili-garlic sauce and/or vinegar, if desired.

Divide the rice among 4 bowls, then top with the stir-fry. Garnish with the scallions, cilantro, and wonton chips or fried Chinese noodles, if using, and serve with sriracha.

Per serving (3/4 cup rice and 1 1/4 cups stir-fry)

Calories: 410; Total Fat: 13 g; Saturated Fat: 2 g; Cholesterol: 0 mg; Sodium: 998 mg; Carbohydrates: 58 g; Dietary Fiber: 8 g; Sugar: 11 g; Protein: 17 g

This analysis is an estimate based on available ingredients and this preparation. It should not substitute for a dietitian’s or nutritionist’s advice.

Adapted from “Mostly Veggies” by Brittany Mullins (Voracious, 2023).

Tested by Jim Webster; email questions to voraciously@washpost.com.

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